Florida Agenda

By TIM SLIVINSKI

One of the most looked forward to aspects of a Sunday morning or early afternoon in Ft. Lauderdale is a leisurely Sunday Brunch. It’s fun to gather a few friends to connect over mimosas, bloody Marys, champagne, great coffee, and delicious food. However, don’t plan anything too early as some of your crew may be recovering or recuperating from a long and late Saturday night. We are lucky because we live in an area where brunch al fresco is nearly always available. Fort Lauderdale offers several options at various price points for Sunday brunch, which is a great way to get the day of rest started, no matter what your later afternoon or evening plans may be.

If you desire to throw caution to the wind and go to the top – literally – for a gastronomic late morning brunch experience, then call the Pier 66 at the Hyatt Regency on 17th Street for a reservation (954-525-6666). You will not find a more beautiful view of the beach and the entire Fort Lauderdale area. As the revolving dining room spins, you will be treated to amazing views that truly showcase why the area is known as the “Venice of America.” While enjoying the views, quaff all the Veuve Cliquot you desire or mimosas made from the same champagne that you can handle. The food options – and there are so many – tempt you from caviar tastes, to full-fledged breakfast and lunch and an assortment of dessert options. Everything is plated with attention to detail, and the food matches the elegance of the room and the champagne served. Served only on Sundays from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m., this is a great choice, even at $65 per person, if you want to impress out-of-town visitors.

Another classic restaurant with a great “FTL vibe,” due to its location on the Intracoastal, is the Blue Moon Fish Company (954-267-9888). This classic South Florida spot offers its brunch from 11:30 a.m. until 3 p.m. every Sunday. An omelette bar offers so many choices for the classic egg dish, but many diners choose the very well seasoned seafood offerings of Louisiana Seafood Gumbo, Blackened Mahi Mahi, or amazing Lump Crabcakes. A bloody Mary, mimosa, or champagne is included in the price. Watch the yachts meander by as you sit and enjoy the South Florida breeze, blue sky, and sunshine and savor some of the best food in the Fort Lauderdale area. And all this for $34.95 per person.

If you love the Intracoastal as much as your beach-casual flip-flops, your dog, and your tank top, then head to Coconuts for their Sunday brunch (954-525-2421). With a great view of the water, Coconuts is a laid back and relaxing venue that serves a Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. until 1 p.m. every Sunday. It welcomes your dog, your beach attire, and your hungry palate. The staff are friendly and eager to please as you settle back to enjoy all that South Florida’s weather offers.

The menu is amazing, but take a personal hint and listen to your server as he or she explains that particular Sunday’s brunch features. They are creative, fun, unusual, and always delicious. Combinations that sound odd always turn out to be utterly amazing on the palate. Relax, enjoy the view, and when you are satiated, head to the beach to enjoy what makes our area the envy of so much of the rest of the country. The price point for most brunch menu items ranges between $8 and $20.

If you just cannot leave the island, then wander over to Rosie’s (954-563-0123) for a brunch that offers tasty, creative and fun options for a “get me started” Sunday. Beginning at 10 a.m., the Sunday brunch at Rosie’s offers relaxing smooth jazz that picks up the pace as the morning morphs into afternoon. Chuckle at menu items called such bone-tickling names as “the Fat Elvis” or the “Nelly Frittata.” From healthy to purely decadent and rich, the brunch at this popular Wilton Manors’ gathering spot offers great mimosas and bloody Marys along with endless coffee if you need a “kick me in the pants” start to your day. The eggs bene“dicts” are enough to share, while the omelettes, can be wrapped to go for a tasty lunch the following day if you just cannot finish them. Combine all that with Rosie’s tropical patio zen space, and you find yourself easily easing into Sunday morning. Depending on your hunger level, menu options vary from $8 to $16.

Looking for a more traditional brunch on the island? Then maybe you need to venture into Tropics (954-537-6000). Long a staple on the Drive, Tropics offers a traditional Sunday Brunch from 10:30 a.m. until 2 p.m., featuring a buffet of favorite breakfast and lunch favorites. There’s something for everyone from omelettes to prime rib. Served in the quiet and subdued atmosphere of their dining room, the Tropics brunch is a great way to mellow out after a raucous or riotous Saturday evening. Let the world outside go by as you sit back with friends and let Tropics’ friendly and attentive wait staff attend to your whims. At $16.95 per person, it’s a great deal.

Brunch is a wonderful antidote to a late night “party hearty” Saturday night or a great prelude to an afternoon at the beach or the pool. As the weather breaks and cools down, take advantage of these fine establishments and many more as you plan your relaxing Sunday.

By TIM SLIVINSKI

It was long awaited, but Tee-Jay Thai Sushi finally opened its doors a couple months back in the Shoppes of Wilton Manors, and the diners have been coming in steady streams ever since. It’s no wonder. The transformation that took place in the location is quite amazing. It is a large dining area that is subdued in color scheme and divided by banquettes that provide seating for larger parties. The colors are soothing while, at the same time, offering a hip, upscale look. Smaller tables for two and four surround the larger tables, or a customer can choose to eat at the bar and watch the sushi masters in action.

On a recent Saturday night, we arrived to find the place bustling with hungry patrons. We were able to snag a table in minutes and settled in with a glass of wine to accompany our perusal of the rather large menu offerings. After some discussion, we decided on spring rolls (a traditional favorite) and a summer roll— after all, Labor Day was approaching, the traditional end to summer. Both appetizers were delicious. The spring rolls were packed with crunchy fresh vegetables and the lightly fried delicate crispness of the exterior almost melted in your mouth. I could become addicted to the spring rolls. The summer roll was wrapped in rice paper and filled with shiitake mushrooms. Delicate, flavorful and light, it was a perfect accompaniment to the crunchy spring roll.

When it came time to determine our entrées, we had so many options that narrowing down our selections took us some time. Tee-Jay offers traditional Thai and Japanese entrées, several noodle dishes, sashimi and various types of rolls. Everything is described in an appealing way, which had us changing our minds often. Ultimately, we both decided to order from the grilled entrée selections. I was in a poultry mood, so ordered the chicken breast while my partner was taken in by the grilled tuna. When the entrees arrived, we loved the three selections of dipping sauces that accompanied our perfectly grilled choices. A teriyaki sauce, a wasabi cream sauce and a traditional peanut sauce allowed us to mix and match flavor profiles with our entrees from the hot — but not too hot — zing of the wasabi to the cool slight sweetness of the teriyaki to the smooth creaminess of the peanut sauce. We discussed the different flavor palates, and I decided that I preferred the wasabi cream while my partner was more partial to the teriyaki. His tuna was perfectly seared on the exterior and wonderfully ruby on the interior, just as tuna ought to be. My chicken breast was moist, juicy and fork tender. Wonderful sides of jasmine rice and crispy sautéed mixed vegetables accompanied our grilled entrees. One hint: I actually enjoyed using the teriyaki sauce to flavor the rice. Try it for yourself and see what you think.

We enjoyed the ambiance of the room as we chatted and determined we need to return to try many of the delicious sounding options on the menu. If you are planning to go to Tee-Jay with a larger group of friends or colleagues, you might want to consider ordering one of Tee-Jay’s boats. A table of six gentlemen near us opted for the boat, and I must say it is an impressive presentation. The boats can be ordered in various sizes, and they offer an array of delicious choices, including rolls, sushi, and sashimi, depending upon the size you order. And yes, all the delicacies do actually arrive at your table in a boat.

Tee-Jay offers beer and wine, and my partner clearly liked the selection of Asian beers on the menu; he enjoys their lightness and the slight sweetness on the palate.

Tee-Jay’s clearly seems to have hit its stride along the Drive, judging by the number of happy diners and the quality of its food. We look forward to a return visit. If you have not yet stopped by for lunch or dinner, make it a point to do so. A well-appointed dining room, great appetizers, delicious entrees — what more can you ask for?

Tee-Jay Thai Sushi

2254 WiltonDrive, Wilton Manors, Fl. 33305

954-537-7774

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Caleb Ben-Avram and Tim Slivinski are the owners of Naked Grape

Wine Bar, a wine bar specializing in limited production wines, craft beers, artisan cheese and meats and tapas.

How long have you been here? What brought you to South Florida?
We have been in South Florida permentaly going on 9 years, but bought our condo 11 years ago. We came to Fort Lauderdale when Tim accepted a job here.

Please tell Agenda readers about your business.
We are a unique, alternative gathering spot on the Drive. We are quiet and mellow, which creates a conducive atmosphere for conversation. It’s a great place to de-stress and relax.

How long have you had your business and how is it going?
We are in our fifth year. Business is going well with many loyal local clients. We have weathered the economic downturn well and have adapted to the changing times.

What niche did you feel was missing, that you started your business?
Many people want a quiet place to meet their partners, spouses and/or friends. We saw a need for a place that would be a great date night spot while, at the same time, introducing limited production wines to our customers. Our addition of tapas was actually a response to customer requests for unique, fun, fresh small plates.

How does your business benefit the community?
The business has given us many opportunities to give back to the gay community, as well as to the community at large.

What disadvantages do you feel there are?
We really see no disadvantages.

How would you identify your management approach? Iron Fist or more Flexible? What do you see as the advantages to your approach?

Our staff is small and this allows us to be flexible. Our employees have great ideas and suggestions that we listen to and take to heart. We want them to have a stake in the business, so we respect their opinions.

What do you feel about the idea that the summer season is slow? How do you combat this pressure?
South Florida needs to come out of the “season” mentality. There are many in the area who are now year-round residents. Summer tourism is actually up also. Those of us who are permanent residents need events throughout the year.  We need to become a 12 month area, rather than a 6 or 7 month area.

How do you think the community as a whole responds to your business?
Our clientele is extremely diverse. All people who come to the wine bar gather and get along well, whether straight, gay, lesbian, old or young. That is a key reason why people come to the Naked Grape. It’s one of the aspects that we, as owners, really like about owning the business. Everyone feels welcome, and people like bringing their parents, siblings and friends into the wine bar when they visit.

In your lifetime how do you feel the gay community has changed?
Though we still have many steps to take, there is certainly a much greater acceptance in the community-at-large of gay and lesbian residents. We are fortunate to live in an area with such wide acceptance. Most people know someone in their lives who is either gay or lesbian, and that makes it much more personal. It’s hard to feel hatred when it’s that close to home. Though there is still prejudice out there, we feel it will continue to decrease as time passes.

Do you believe there is credence to the idea that a business geared towards the gay market is cutting out a major section of the wider community?
It depends on the business. In our case, we welcome the wider community and that co-existence does a great deal to broaden understanding and acceptance of the gay community.

How do you minimize that effect?
In some cases, minimizing it is not necessary. Again, it depends on the nature of the business.

What plans do you have for the future?
As of September 1, we are broadening the wine bar by offering a tapas menu and market items for sale at our new location. This plan has been under development for nearly a year. Our menu will focus on fresh, seasonal items. It will change regularly rather than remaining static. We hope to remain one option of many along the Drive in the years to come as we continue to watch and be a part of the on-going development of the Drive.

If you had an open check book, what business would you go into next?
We would remain with our wine bar/craft beer/tapas/market concept. We enjoy what we do, our many great customers and working with our loyal, fun staff. We really have no desire to change into another business but continue to improve the Naked Grape.

By TIM SLIVINSKI

Hi-Life Café
3000 North Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale, FL
954-563-1395

I will confess: I have a long history with the Hi-Life Café. On a sentimental note, it was the very first restaurant where my partner and I had an intimate dinner out on our very first trip to Fort Lauderdale, many moons ago. It became our tradition that we would book reservations for dinner at the Hi-Life on our very first evening here whenever we returned for another vacation. Eventually, we settled here permanently, and while so much has changed since those first visits and so many places have come and gone, the

Hi-Life Café continues going strong, serving its loyal clients dinner in a subdued, intimate setting.

The ambiance of the Hi-Life is integral to its consistent appeal. It is not flashy or trendy, but instead offers calming, soothing colors, linen tablecloths, fresh flowers and the soft and appealing glow of candles. Just walking in immediately puts you at ease as you look forward to a relaxing dining experience. Chances are good that you will be greeted by host Aude Weis, owner of the Hi-Life, as she shows you to your table. The first dining room offers the option of eating at the bar or at one of the tables along the side or in front near the windows. The second dining room, through an archway to the right, offers several tables of various sizes to accommodate an intimate dinner for two or a night out with friends.

On a recent visit, my partner and I invited two friends we had not seen in some time to join us for dinner so we could chat and get caught up. Aude showed us to a round table — perfect for conversation — and we all decided to begin our evening with a round of kir royales, a wonderful summertime Champagne cocktail, light and refreshing. As the conversation flowed and the laughs erupted, we turned our attention to the dinner menu. A board of features was presented, as was the daily dinner menu.

Hi-Life, taking a cue from current dining trends, now offers many of its salads, appetizers and entrees in two sizes: either a h

alf or full portion, a great idea that more restaurants need to consider.

We all decided on different starters. I chose the half portion of the herbed goat cheese salad, an all-time favorite of mine at the Hi-Life. It offers an herb crusted, crispy, creamy triangle of goat cheese on top of fresh spring greens and chopped tomatoes, dressed in a very light vinaigrette. Delicious as always! My partner chose his favorite, the smaller portion of the Belgian endive salad. The endive leaves are topped with bleu cheese, tomatoes and pecans, all dressed in a light Champagne vinaigrette. One friend chose the vichyssoise, the classic leek and potato soup, offered either warm or cold, while the other selected a feature soup: a creamy brie and mushroom soup. Both emptied their bowls and pronounced them delicious.

As the chit chat continued around the table and we grew ever more comfortable, it was time to decide on entrees. Always a fan of grouper, I chose the pan-seared grouper served on risotto from the feature menu. It arrived perfectly moist and tender, with a wonderful caper sauce that added just a bit of zest to the grouper. It was light and flavorful, a great summer dinner. My partner and another friend were feeling like something a bit heartier, so they decided upon the southwestern Bolognese. It is a spicy mix of ground filet and New York strip served over angel hair pasta and finished with nutty Parmesan cheese. It was delightfully spicy without being too over the top. The empty pasta bowls in front of both of them said it all. Our other dining companion chose a Hi-Life classic: Chef Carlos’ signature salmon. A salmon filet is pan seared and then baked; it is then topped with a light Dijon sauce that plays well with the freshness of the salmon. Sautéed spinach and roasted potatoes finish the plate. He pronounced it “summer on a plate”.

Our dining experience at the Hi-Life was just as enjoyable on our recent visit as it had been so many years ago when we first dined there. It is a superb date place, as well as a great place to leisurely dine and get caught up with old friends. Don’t be surprised if Chef Carlos himself stops by your table to inquire about your menu selections and your dining experience. If you have not been to the Hi-Life Café in some time, then perhaps, like a good friend you can count on, it is time to become re-acquainted.

A Touch of Paris in South Florida

Rendez Vous Bakery1576 East Oakland Park Boulevard, Oakland Park, FL 33334-4425 (954) 563-2228

By TIM SLIVINSKI

Sometimes we all need to get away from the usual. Of course, a European vacation visiting the countryside of France would be a great venue for that. But when busy schedules and/or finances do not permit such an extravagance, do not fear. We are fortunate to have a wee (or should I say “oui”) touch of France right in our own backyard. The Rendez-Vous Bakery and Bistro will permit you to enjoy a bit of French wine, food, and pastry for a fraction of the cost of a trip overseas.

Rendez-Vous offers options for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so whatever time of day that a desire for something French hits you, you can be assured your wish can be fulfilled. Because I generally dislike the mess and fuss of fixing breakfast, I often opt to eat my first meal of the day out. A recent Sunday morning found me seated at a roomy wooden booth at Rendez-Vous, contemplating a wide menu of options to get my day going. A crepe sounded delicious, as did something called eggs forestiere, which consists of two eggs dipped in a wild mushroom sauce. After sipping a cup of coffee, my eye was drawn to a selection of quiches on the menu. I finally decided on the quiche Florentine. It promised a puff pastry shell filled with egg batter, spinach and Swiss cheese. I asked for the grilled potatoes as an accompaniment, though a salad was also an option. The quiche arrived with a golden, flaky crust and a savory filling that offered a perfect blend of ingredients. It was rich without being too powerful. As I leisurely forked my way to the last bite, I vowed to return to try other quiches on the menu. My partner, going a more traditional route, selected the eggs benedict. It was a traditional benedict, but he especially enjoyed the lemony tang in the hollandaise sauce as well as its, according to him, “not too thick and gooey texture.”

Lunch on another visit displayed a menu filled with both French – as well as more traditional American – fare. Several savory crepes with options such as chicken, ham or seafood sounded tempting. If you are not a carnivore, there is a vegetable crepe on the menu, as well. Several entrees, both cold and hot, also caught my attention, making a final choice even more difficult. Deciding that the theme of the bistro was clearly French, I opted for a hot entrée: merguez on a baguette. Let me explain. It offers two lamb sausages and onion marmalade on a fresh baguette. I felt as if I would be speaking French at any moment. It was a wonderfully savory choice that took me out of my food comfort zone. Rich and a tad spicy, without any one flavor overwhelming the others, the onion marmalade offered just a touch of sweetness that contrasted well with the earthy sausage. A smoky, spicy harissa sauce on the side was offered for an extra kick! A more than generous portion of French fries —what else! — accompanied the sandwich. A fresh baguette is, to me, always a great vehicle for a sandwich. It made a perfectly filling lunch.

My partner was intrigued by and selected the Assiette Campagnarde salad. He was presented with a beautifully colorful arrangement of mixed greens, red tomatoes, brie, prosciutto, saucisson sec, paté and cornichons. It was a plate of freshness that offered an array of textures as well as flavors. He was pleased, very pleased.

While dining at Rendez-Vous, it is imperative to take note of the day’s selections of pastries and desserts. Displayed in a case along the wall, each dessert looked not only delicious, but also like a work of art. Bright, vivid colors against dark chocolate and fresh, colorful fruits in mini-tart shells beckoned each person to try just one. Perhaps on my next visit I will succumb to the decadent goodness and richness of at least one of them. Nevertheless, each one was a feast for the eyes.

Rendez-Vous also offers a selection of wines if you care to sip a bit of the grape, either before or with your lunch or dinner. The list leans heavily toward French varietals, as one might expect. The price points for both glass and bottle selections are very reasonable. If you want to be truly French and summery, try a bottle of the Cote de Provence Rosé. Rosés from Provence are among the best in the world, and they offer a light, fruity, refreshing contrast to the South Florida summer heat.

The next time the mood for a quick trip to Paris strikes your fancy, sample a touch of France right here in South Florida. The Rendez-Vous Bakery and Bistro can transport you, at least for an hour or two, to a quaint little bôite that you just happened to find along a French country road.

Zuckerello’s Maintains Their Reputation as a Consistent Delight

By TIM SLIVINSKI

Amid the openings and closings of new restaurants in the world of food, it is sometimes way too easy to forget those restaurants which have been serving delicious food to our South Florida community for several years. Zuckerello’s is one of those places that sort of ‘flies under the radar’. Mention it to someone and they frequently will comment something like, “oh yeah, I haven’t been there in a while.” I must admit that I am guilty of the very same thing. A recent Saturday night saw my partner and I driving down Commercial Blvd. feeling hungry and ready for dinner. We saw Zuckerello’s and decided to pull in. A fairly full parking lot was a good omen in the slow summer season.

We walked in to a dining room full of conversation, clinking forks and delicious aromas. We were shown to a booth and realized that this place is much larger than you may realize. The dining room is extensive with different seating areas of tables and booths and a full service bar at the rear of the restaurant. We placed a cocktail order with our friendly server, and he reappeared quickly with a basket of warm dinner rolls and a delicious garlicky sauce for dipping.

We decided to begin our gastronomic adventure with an appetizer from the features menu; an order of fish cakes sounded like a good beginning. They arrived perfectly crisp on the exterior and brimming with moist fish on the interior.

They were plated atop a zingy, zesty, crispy red cabbage slaw that played a delicious flavor contrast to the fish cakes. Drizzled over the cakes was a cilantro aioli. It was nice play on the traditional crab cakes and a feature I would happily order again. The appetizer plate was clean and ready to put away — quickly!

We both opted for a salad before our entrees. I love a Caesar salad before dinner, and a large bowl of crisp romaine with chunky, buttery, garlicky croutons and creamy Caesar dressing did not disappoint. I was pleased to see bright green, fresh romaine throughout the salad. My partner opted for a house salad, which was a refreshing mix of greens, red onion, tomato and Kalamata olives in a creamy Italian style dressing. (The addition of the olives to a traditional green salad is a nice touch.)

The time had come: We soon realized we could not put off any longer ordering our main courses. The problem was narrowing the selection from so many options that sounded appealing. Every time we shared an idea about what to order, something else on the menu seemed to grab our attention. I finally decided to go traditionally Italian and ordered veal parmesan. The other half is most definitely a lamb aficionado, so he decided to go with the braised lamb shank that was being served over a risotto.

Upon ordering a second cocktail, our steaming dinner plates arrived. Even after the fish cakes and salad, we were still feeling a tad ravenous. The veal parmesan was a traditional lightly breaded veal cutlet served with marinara and a side of angel hair pasta. It was tender with a marinara that was neither too tangy nor too sweet. It was what I had envisioned when I placed my order: a traditional Italian favorite that did not disappoint. My partner loved the combination of the saucy, braised lamb shank served over risotto. He declared it perfectly cooked and delightfully flavorful. As we made our way through our dinners, we found our hunger gradually satiated and knew we would each have an ample lunch the following day.

Service at Zuckerello’s is friendly and efficient, and the menu offers a wide array of choices depending upon your appetite on any particular evening. It clearly has a regular following in the area, which explains why it has remained while so many other restaurants have come and gone. We need to remember the places that have consistently kept us fed over the years. Like Zuckerello’s, they are still with us because of a consistency in service, food quality and menu offerings. If you have not been to Zuckerello’s in a while, stop in and give them a try … soon!

The Riverside Grille
125 N. Riverside Drive, Pompano Beach, FL
954-941-2499

By TIM SLIVINSKI

If you are looking for a taste of Old Florida and what defined this area before “the boom,” then take a trip up A1A to Pompano Beach and have dinner at The Riverside Grille. Open since 1993, this unassuming restaurant along the Intracoastal offers a wide selection of good food without being fussy or pretentious. If it’s a breezy summer evening, ask for a table outside and enjoy a beautiful sunset as boats travel by on the waterway. It may seem a bit touristy, but so what? We all need to be tourists in our own backyard once in a while.

On a balmy evening, my partner and I sat at a table on the deck as the sun played behind the clouds. A recent brief rain shower had cooled the air a bit and a gentle breeze made it a pleasant South Florida evening.  We each ordered a cocktail and began to peruse the menu.

The Riverside Grille leans heavily toward seafood, as you might expect from its location. If you are a shellfish devotee, the Riverside offers raw bar selections of oysters and clams. In addition are several cold and hot appetizer options. We decided to try the Clams Casino from the hot starter menu. Topped with herb butter crumbs and applewood smoked bacon, we drizzled a little lemon and enjoyed the play of citrus, smoke and brine that each clam contained. We were off to a good start!

Given our location on the water and the Riverside’s large seafood options, we both decided that something from the sea would be our entrée choice. I decided to begin with a small Caesar salad. I was impressed when a beautiful green salad arrived with the dressing completely on the side. (Overly dressed salads are a pet peeve of mine.) The Riverside automatically allows you to dress your greens as lightly or as heavily as you desire. Impressive. It is also worth noting that the salad arrived with shavings of thinly planed parmesan. Why any restaurant uses that powdery stuff in the canister on a Caesar salad is beyond me. Impressive again. All salad dressings are made on the premises, and this one was tangy and creamy and clearly not out of a bottle. Finally, the croutons were cut and toasted from their own bread.  This was a real salad. Likewise, my partner opted for the traditional wedge salad, his favorite, and he pronounced its blue cheese dressing as ‘simply delicious’.

After reading through the menu options several times and hearing the day’s fresh catches, we were ready to select our entrees. I chose Almond Crusted Snapper, while my cohort opted for Key Lime Grilled Grouper. When my plate arrived, the lightly crusted and herbed snapper was succulent and fork tender. The almonds provided not only a bit of flavor, but some added texture with their crunch. I ordered black beans and rice as my side, and the portion was more than generous and tasty without being overly spicy. Cohort’s grouper was a nicely grilled filet, and he loved the drizzle of key lime, cilantro and citrus that offered a zing of flavor to the moistly grilled grouper. He had a side of mashed potatoes that were perfectly home-style and both plates offered green beans as a veggie accompaniment. As the sun set and created a puzzle with the clouds, our palates were both happy with seafood dinners on the water — how utterly South Florida!

If your dining partner or friends are not seafood eaters, fear not, for the Riverside Grille also offers menu options in steak, chicken, pork chops – and even vegetarian; many of these dishes are created daily by the restaurant’s chef, depending on what is fresh and available that inspires his food muse. We did not order it, but a nearby table was raving over a cup of clam chowder.  For the summer, the Riverside Grille is offering an amazing deal if you are a lobster lover. For $49.95, it’s a Dinner for Two Feature. Each person receives a whole steamed lobster along with the potato and vegetable of the day, as well as a bottle of featured wine. We saw several tables happily enjoying their lobster with their lobster bibs tightly in place.

In addition to dinner, the Riverside Grille is open for lunch daily. It is a great reminder of the Florida of days past before restaurants became so corporate. Next time you feel the need to revisit those days and enjoy a lunch or dinner on the Intracoastal, take the drive up to Pompano Beach and enjoy delicious seafood at the Riverside Grille.

It’s Easy to Fall in Love with Over Easy

Over Easy Cafe – 318 East Oakland Park Blvd – (954)561-1177

By TIM SLIVINSKI

We all have those mornings when, for whatever reason, we wake up famished. We down a cup of coffee or two, but we really need some food, something to energize us for the day ahead. We could scramble some eggs, maybe fry a little bacon, but we really don’t feel ambitious – and then there’s the mess to clean up. To top it off, we’re just not in the mood for some chef ’s “froo-froo” creation of mango-basil-jalapeno French toast topped with crème fraiche and caviar. We crave good old-fashioned down home breakfast food. Welcome to the Over Easy Café.

There’s nothing fancy or over the top at the Over Easy, and that’s exactly what makes it so special. You are greeted with a hell-o when you walk in the door, and whether you slide into a booth or take a seat at the counter, the coffee arrives swiftly and your cup will never be empty again. There’s a very good chance that Cathy, the owner of the café since 1995, will be at your side taking your breakfast order with a big smile.

Deciding what to order may be the biggest challenge of your morning. In true diner fashion, the choices are seemingly endless. One morning I opted for two eggs, corned beef hash, hash browns, and rye toast. If, like me, you are a fan of the shredded hash brown potatoes for breakfast, then run, don’t walk, to the Over Easy Café. I don’t know why these delicious breakfast potatoes are so rare in South Florida, but they are. When I find a restaurant that serves them, they begin to win my approval immediately. My eggs arrived perfectly over easy—just like the café’s name—the hash was crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior, the potatoes were also crispy with a soft center, and the toast was perfectly buttered. I settled back in the booth and just knew it was the start to a good day. I joined the clean plate club that day, too!

My dining partner opted for one of the Daily Triples called the Island City Slam. It offers a choice of two p

ancakes or two slices of French toast, two eggs and two bacon strips and two sausages. He opted for the French toast, the sausage and bacon combo — they will let you have all bacon or all sausage if you prefer — and over medium eggs. When his plate arrived, the French toast was nicely grilled egg-dipped bread, nothing fancy, but oh so simple and delicious. He pronounced the bacon perfectly crisp and the egg yolks at the perfect soft/hard combination. Another member of the clean plate club was declared.

Another visit had me selecting a pecan waffle. Though I am not generally a waffle or pancake lover, I had overhead another customer exclaiming over the perfect golden doneness of his waffle on a previous visit. The man was absolutely correct. The waffle arrived with a perfect golden crunch. I hastily filled the waffle’s little pockets with butter and syrup, and began another perfect morning. Pecans studded the waffle just enough to add flavor but not to be overwhelming. That morning, my partner was in an omelet mood, so he ordered a three cheese omelet. A large omelet arrived with a side of hash browns and an order of toast. The omelet was oozing melted cheese and covered over half the plate. Again, he too was off to a great morning start as bite after bite quickly disappeared.

No, there’s nothing fancy about the Over Easy Café, and that’s what makes it so homey. The café is spotlessly clean, the staff — many of whom appear to be family — are courteous and friendly, and no one ever feels ignored. As you sit and enjoy the hominess of the place and the deliciousness of your breakfast choice, you soon realize that this is a place that has a very steady regular clientele. Names are shouted as people enter the front door, and that, too, is a sign of a well-run and well-loved business. As you dine, take note of the colorful tropical mural that lines the left wall as you enter the café. Cathy told me it was painted for them by artist John Noyet. It adds a perfect South Florida touch to your experience.

The Over Easy Café is open seven days a week for breakfast and lunch, and they also offer delivery service and catering. Stop in and give them a try and perhaps you will become a regular. I plan to become one, so maybe I will see you there.

By TIM SLIVINSKI

In years past, the bar in a restaurant was often a place merely to hang out while waiting for your chance at a table. It was sort of akin to a “waiting room”. Restaurant bars often lacked identity or ambience, and frequently seemed to be mere holding rooms for hungry, anxious restaurant patrons. In recent years, however, all that has changed. The bar has become an integral part of a restaurant’s marketing and customer base. Current restaurant design puts as much thought into the ambience at the bar as the ambience in the dining room. Some restaurants clearly put a separation between the bar and the main dining area, while others attempt a seamless flow from bar to dining room, without a clear cut distinction between one and the other. Simply put, the restaurant bar has definitely come into its own.

Reasons for choosing to eat at the bar are as varied as the customers who patronize any particular establishment. Undoubtedly, some choose a seat at the bar because it’s available right away rather than waiting for a table, but that seems to be a clear minority option now. When dining alone, some feel more comfortable eating at the bar rather than taking up an entire table. In addition, bar patrons are often likely to strike up a bit of banter, so if you feel like conversation, the bar is a great option. If nothing else, a customer can always engage the bartender in a bit of schmoozing. Others may like the higher energy of the bar area; the bar is generally a bit louder, noisier, and many thrive on that energy level. Some restaurants even offer special “bar menus,” often called “bar bites,” with food choices that are not available in the dining room. If you find a favorite “bar bite” bistro, then you might definitely opt for bar dining. Of course, there are those who enjoy watching a bartender do his or her thing. It’s fun to watch a talented bartender in action – after all, mixing cocktails is an art, and some in the profession do it very well.

Some bartenders even have their own unofficial “fan clubs,” patrons who come in regularly to chat and watch them perform their magic with an array of spirits.

It should be noted as well that most restaurants that offer bars are happy to let you order dinner entrees from the dining room menu while seated at the bar.

Many of the restaurants we have spotlighted in recent months have fun, unique, energetic bar scenes that are worth checking out. Michele’s Dining Lounge, for example, has a beautifully appointed bar that offers delicious bar bites, with special Happy Hour pricing everyday. J. Marks, of course, has to be one of the hottest bar scenes in Fort Lauderdale; it draws a diverse mix of professionals who enjoy its high energy vibe. Worth noting is that fact that the bar at J. Marks serves a late night menu with selected appetizers and entrees at special pricing. Similarly, Mojo offers a special bar menu with amazing specials to accompany their delicious cocktails. (Try Mussels Monday for delicious mussels in a choice of broth to accompany your cocktail of choice. You’ll need extra bread for the sauce!)

Market 17 on the 17th Street Causeway has a beautifully curved bar with a menu of signature cocktails to accompany their bar snacks. Worth noting here as well is the amazing wine list that features several unique, more limited production varietals.

At Johnny V, the smooth marble bar is an integral part of the dining room. Order appetizers from the main menu or select an array of cheeses from their cheese menu to nibble on as you sip your favorite libation or glass of wine.

Dining at the bar can be a fun option. I have often found myself in interesting, lively conversations with people after just one sip of my cocktail. Some have even gone on to become friends. A word of caution, however: While dining at the bar can be fun when dining alone or with a friend or partner, it is often awkward in larger groups. The linear design of most bars can make conversation with three or more people a bit challenging. Next time you walk into a restaurant and take note of its lively, beautiful, vibrant bar area, take a chance — if you have not already done so — and eat the bar. You never know, I just might be sitting next to you!

Photo: Summer Baby Spinach Salad:  Bushbaby green beans, hearts of palm, sweet and spicy pickled starfruit, saffronorange vinaigrette salad from Market 17

Big City Tavern on Las Olas Blvd in Fort Lauderdale

By TIM SLIVINSKI

After enjoying a spectacularly sunny Sunday afternoon soaking up the sun and bopping to the beats at the Depot Cabana Bar’s inaugural poolside Tdance, my partner and I decided we required something a little more sedate and out of the sun for Sunday dinner. Something pulled us toward Las Olas and, as we meandered down the street, we commented on that place we always walk by but have never gone into: Big City Tavern. We decided to rectify that situation on the spot and walked in and requested a table.

Though Big City has the look and the energy of a tavern in a place like New York City, if you request to be seated in one of the oversized booths, you can sink into your own relaxing space. After ordering a martini for me and a craft beer for my partner, we realized that the sun had made us famished. Our server promptly informed us of that day’s featured crispy flatbread, and we said “bring it.” The flatbread was topped with salmon and feta cheese in a sort of variation on bagels and lox. When it arrived, we each quickly grabbed a slice and tasted. The natural saltiness of the feta played well against the tender sweetness of the salmon. The crispy crust was definitely firm enough to hold the toppings because a wimpy, limp flatbread is never a winner in my book.

It did not take us long to consume each bite of its savory — sweet — salty goodness.

When it’s time to order entrees, Big City allows you many options so you can eat as light or as hearty as your appetite dictates. Feeling perhaps a need to be healthy, my partner ordered the Maryland jumbo lump crab cake from the appetizer portion of the menu along with a market greens salad. The crab cake was filled with large pieces of tender crab, and the cake itself was savory and not overly “bready” because of too much filler. He particularly liked the piquant flavor that the accompanying dill-lime tartar sauce added to the delicate flavors of the crab cake. His salad was crispy fresh, no wilted limp greens, with a light Dijon-shallot vinaigrette dressing.

Feeling the need for something a bit heartier, but also desiring seafood (maybe it was all that afternoon time near the pool), I opted for the pecan crusted snapper. I will admit in full disclosure that I am freak for nut encrusted seafood. It seems to allow the fish to remain succulent and moist while adding a crunchy texture as contrast to the tenderness of the fish. When it arrived, I was greeted by a more than ample serving whose aromas were savory, nutty and sweet. When I put my fork into the fish, it was juicy and steaming, not at all overdone. Another aspect I liked was that I was able to eat it without all the pecans falling off with each forkful.

The roasted winter vegetables that accompanied the snapper offered a nice touch of earthiness to the plate. I had no trouble joining the clean plate club that evening.

Big City Tavern offers choices in sandwiches, pizzas and pastas, as well as in beef, poultry and seafood entrees. It also offers a late night limited menu on Fridays and Saturdays for those evenings when you may have attended a show or concert and have the munchies afterwards. Outdoor seating along Las Olas is available, and Big City also offers a vibrant bar area to the left as you walk in the main door.

Service is friendly and attentive, and the booths allow you sink back and enjoy your experience. If you have walked past Big City Tavern and not yet walked in, maybe it’s time to give it a try. I know I will not be a mere “passerby” any longer!

Big City Tavern is located at 609 East Las Olas Blvd. Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301  Phone: 954-727-0307